History of Mosul

 

 

 

Preamble

 

Mosul (pronounced Almawsil in standard Arabic  ÇáãæÕá , Mosl or Mosool in colloquial dialect) is the capital of Naynawa (Nineveh) Governorate äíäæì, in north-western Iraq, some 396 km (250 miles) north-west of Baghdad.  It flanks both banks of the Tigris River, with five bridges linking the two sides. 

 

The city's population in 1987 was 664,221 people which had risen to 900,000 by 1979 and  by 2002 had risen to an estimated 1,739,800.  It was the nation's second largest city, after Baghdad, but is now third after Basrah.  About 80% of the population of Mosul is Arab, with a minority of Kurds, Assyrians, and Turkomans.  However, the region to the north is predominantly Kurdish.   It is the largest city in the north of Iraq and the commercial centre of the Muhafadhah (governorate).  The city is linked by road and rail connections with Baghdad and other Iraqi cities and nearby Syria and Turkey; it also has an airport.  Mosul grew more prosperous after World War II with increased trade and the development of nearby important oil fields to the east and north with a refinery in Mosul. It is now a centre for the production of cement, textiles, sugar etc and a marketplace for agricultural products. 

 

 

Mosul Ancient and Modern

 

The area around Mosul has been inhabited continuously for at least 8,000 years.  The first settlement of Nineveh, a small Neolithic hamlet, was probably founded not later than the 7th millennium BC.  Hassuna-Sāmarā’ and Tall Halaf painted pottery of the subsequent Early Chalcolithic phases, are characteristic of the north.  This was succeeded by grey wares such as occur westward in the Jabal Sinjār.  Additionally, farmers during the 4th millennium used clay sickles of a type found in the Ubaid period which implies contact with the south.

 

From time immemorial, roads from the foothills of Kurdistan debouched there, and a tributary of the Tigris, the Khawşar River, added to the value of the fertile agricultural and pastoral lands in the district.

 

Mosul itself was founded by the Assyrians in approximately 850 BC by King Ashurnasirpal II of Assyria who chose the city of Nimrud in which to build his capital city, where present day Mosul is located. It was originally an outpost or citadel located on the hill of Q'leat on the right bank of the Tigris across from the ancient city of Nineveh which expanded onto the left bank to enclose the ruins of Nineveh, the oldest and most populous city of the ancient Assyrian Empire.  Nineveh had been the made the new capital of Assyria by King Sennacherib in approximately 700 BC.  Al-Mosul (meaning the link) succeeded Nineveh as the Tigris bridgehead between the west and the east.  The mound of Kuyunjik in Mosul is the site of the palaces of King Sennacherib and his grandson Ashurbanipal. 

 

Mosul became an important commercial center in the 6th century BC and was conquered briefly by the Roman Empire before falling under Muslim rule in 637 AD.  It became the capital of Mesopotamia under the Umayyads in the 8th century, during which it reached a peak of prosperity.  During the Abbassid era it was an important trading centre because of its strategic location, astride the trade routes to India, Persia and the Mediterranean.  In succeeding centuries a number of independent dynasties ruled the city which reached its political zenith under the Zengid dynasty (1127-1222 AD) and Sultan Badr ad-Din Lu’Lu (1222-37 AD).   

 

Saladin besieged the city unsuccessfully in 1182 AD although the Ayyubids, the dynasty of Saladin, made a great capital in Mosul, building new quareter outside the gates, new markets, schools, caravanserais and mosques.    When the traveller Yaqut visited the city in the thirteenth century, he proclaimed, ‘I have often heard that the great cities of the world are three; Nishapur because it is the door to the east, Damascus because it is the door to the west and Mosul because it is the short way to the two directions through which few do not pass’. 

 

However in 1258 the region’s prosperity ended when it was conquered and destroyed by the Mongols under Hülegü who ravaged the entire region.  Mosul itself was finally taken in 1262 after a year-long seige by the warriors of Gengiz Khan who plundered its wealth, killing its inhabitants and ending the rule of Saladin’s descendants.  It was next occupied by Shah Ismail in 1508 AD.  Shah Ismail was followed by the Ottomans, who ruled Mosul from 1534 to 1918, with a brief break in 1623 when Persia seized the city for a short time, and was the capital of one of the three vilayets (provinces) of Ottoman Iraq (the other two being Baghdad and Basra).  During the Ottoman period Mosul became a trade centre of their empire and the headquarters of a political subdivision. It was made famous by the production of fine cotton goods (hence the word ‘muslin’ in English).  Although it was rebuilt under the rule of the Ottoman Empire and remained important, it did not regain its earlier grandeur. Under the British occupation and mandate (1918-32) it regained its stature as the chief city of the region.

 

Following World War I and Iraqi independence from Turkey, the city’s commercial importance declined because it was cut off from the rest of the former Ottoman Empire although Turkey continued to claim the Mosul area until 1926 when the League of Nations sent a commission to decide on the conflicting claims of Turkey and Britain who had forces occupying parts of the province.  The League finally attached the province to the fledgling state of Iraq. 

 

Mosul held enormous fascination for Europeans in the nineteenth century.  They sought in Nineveh, right across the river, the origins of civilization itself.  Many well known visitors were also attracted to Mosul who left written records of their visits; they include Gertrude Bell who wrote of her visit in her book Amurath to Amurath in which she describes something of the history of Mosul, its people and its political makeup together with a meeting with one of the notables. The famous crime writer, Agatha Christie, lived in Mosul whilst her second husband, Max Mallowen the archaeologist, was involved in the excavation in Nimrud.  

 

Like bees building unconventional cells, Mosul's people innovated during the nineteenth century. They worked to incorporate new methods, new products, and new interactions into networks that they had already constructed in their crafts, their commerce, their city, and their region.

 

Mosul's importance as a strategic trading centre declined following the opening of the Suez Canal.  The canal resulted in cargoes travelling to and from India by sea rather than by land across Iraq. However, the city's fortunes revived greatly following the discovery and exploitation of oil in the area from the late 1920s onwards. This resulted in it becoming a nexus for the movement of oil via road and pipeline to both Turkey and Syria.  Approximately one hour’s drive from the City is the Qyuarrah Refinery which was used for the purpose of processing oil for roadbuilding projects.

 

Since World War II the city has been enlarged several times in area by new constructions including The University of Mosul (1967) and a modern five-span bridge stretching across the Tigris to the new suburb of Nineveh.  

 

The Mosul Museum contains many interesting finds from the ancient sites of Nineveh and Nimrud. The Mosul House is a beautiful, old-style building, constructed around a central courtyard and with an impressive facade of Mosul marble. It contains displays of Mosul life depicted in tableau form. 2

 

Today your first sight of Mosul from the south is still a bit disappointing: the buildings are modern and have a utilitarian look, nearer you can cheer up. You begin to see better things: the river, the comiche and the old houses that still stand on the water's edge, and the parks. Also you can see minarets and church spires and domes above the rooftops. Mosul improves the closer you get to it and it is a centre for the tourist resorts of northern Iraq.  

 

 

Mosul’s Religious Diversity

 

Mosul is a religious and ethnically diverse city.  It has the highest proportion of Christians of all the Iraqi cities and contains several interesting old churches, including the Clock and Latin Church, which contains some fine marble and stained glass. The Chaldean Catholic Church of Al-Tahira was built as a monastery in AD300 and became a church in 1600 when various additions were built. The Chamoun al Safa church dates from the thirteenth century and has a most interesting and intricate approach.  It also has a deep underground courtyard and a cemetery between high walls containing some ornate tombstones of Moslawi merchants.

 

The city is a historic center of Nestorian Christianity containing the tombs of several Old Testament prophets such as Jonah who is commemorated in a rare joint Muslim/Christian shrine (originally a Nestorian church, now a mosque), and the somewhat more obscure Nahum.

 

Also within Mosul is the Mosque of Nebi Yunus.  This is believed to be the burial place of the Biblical Jonah.  The mosque is built atop a mound beneath which are thought to be part of the ruins of the ancient city of Nineveh although this is impossible to verify as the site is sacred and cannot be disturbed.

 

Other monuments are the Great Nuriddine Mosque, built in 1172 with it’s famously crooked minaret standing 52 metres high. It is built of very elaborate brickwork and is named after its builder Nuriddin Zanqi.  This is together with the Red Mosque, the mosque of Nabi Jarjis and various other shrines and mausoleums.

 

 

Nineveh and Assyria

 

Assyria took its name from its chief city, Assur, on the upper Tigris.  Lying north of Babylonia, on the great trade route of the Fertile Crescent, the country was frequently invaded from the north as well as from the south. Constant warfare made the Assyrians fierce fighters, and traders who passed their way were forced to pay them tribute for protection. The Assyrians had long been under the control of Babylon and had absorbed Babylonian culture. Like the Babylonians they were Semites, and their language was almost identical with the Babylonian.  From the Hittites of Anatolia they learned the use of iron and developed powerful weapons to build up a military state.  Also from them they  acquired horses and were the first to use them in war as cavalry instead of for drawing chariots.

 

Assyria's greatest period of expansion took place as the power of the Hittites and Egyptians over Syria and Palestine gradually weakened. The Assyrian King Tiglath-Pileser III (745-727 BC) took Damascus in Syria.  Sargon II (722-705 BC), most famous of Assyrian kings, made Palestine an Assyrian province. His son Sennacherib (705-681 BC) conquered Sidon, in Phoenicia, but Tyre resisted his assault.  Esarhaddon (681-668 BC) conquered Egypt. Ashurbanipal (668-626 BC), the last of the great Assyrian kings, subdued Elam, east of Mesopotamia, and extended the empire to its greatest size. Roads were built to enable the Assyrian armies to subdue rebels quickly. A highly organized mail service carried messages from the court to faraway governors.

 

North of Nineveh, Sargon II built a palace far surpassing anything seen before his day. It covered 25 acres (10 hectares) and had nearly 1,000 rooms. Near it stood a seven-story ziggurat temple.

 

Sennacherib put up three magnificent palaces in his capital at Nineveh. The Babylonians had covered their brick walls with glazed brickwork of many colors, but the Assyrians faced theirs with delicately carved slabs of limestone or glowing alabaster. Colossal human-headed winged bulls or lions, carved in alabaster, stood guard outside the main gates of palaces and temples. The Assyrians produced little literature, but in great libraries they preserved copies of Babylonian and Sumerian works. They worshiped the old Babylonian gods but gave their own god, Assur, first place. After the death of Ashurbanipal in 626 BC, Assyria's enemies joined forces and in 612 BC the Babylonians and Medes completely destroyed Nineveh. Six years later the Assyrian Empire collapsed.

 

 

Archeological History of Nineveh

 

The first person to survey and map Nineveh was the archaeologist Claudius J Rich in 1820, a work later completed by Felix Jones and published by him in 1854.  Since that time numerous excavations have been undertaken by archeologists.  Austen Henry (later Sir Henry) Layard during 1845-51 discovered the palace of Sennacherib and took back to England an unrivalled collection of stone bas-reliefs together with thousands of tablets inscribed in cuneiform from the great library of Ashurbanipal.  The work was continued in 1852 by Hormuzd Rassam and it was during 1929-32 that R. Campbell Thompson excavated the temple of Nabu (Nebo) on behalf of the British Museum and discovered the site of the palace of Ashurnasirpal II.  In 1931-32, together with M.E.L. (later Sir Max) Mallowan, Thompson for the first time dug a shaft from the top of the Quyunjik (Acropolis), 90 feet (30 metres) above the level of the plain, down through strata of accumulated debris of earlier cultures to virgin soil proving that more than four-fifths of this great accumulation is prehistoric.

 

One of the most remarkable discoveries that Mallowan and Thompson made in the prehistoric strata consisted of roughly made bevelled bowls, overturned in the soil and filled with vegetable matter.  These may have been intended as magical offerings to expel evil spirits from houses.  Their typology conforms exactly  with that of Uruk (Erech) pottery, widespread throughout the Tigris-Euphrates Valley in the late 4th millennium.  Also in these levels large metal vases occur, again characteristic of southern Babylonia and technologically this district of the Tigris had much in common with the cities of the lower Euphrates Valley of the same period.  This similarity is of particular interest because it indicates that some time before 3000 BC a period of economic prosperity had united the commercial interests of north and south although later these two civilizations diverged widely.

 

A little before and after 3000 BC, unpainted Ninevite pottery was similar to that used at Sumerian sites and from approximately the same period belongs a series of attractively painted and incised ware known as Ninevite V, which is a home product distinct from that of the south.  Beads found in these strata may be dated c. 2900 BC.

 

The most remarkable object of the 3rd millennium BC is a realistic bronze head; it is life-size, cast and chased of a bearded monarch.  This, the finest piece of metal sculpture ever recovered from Mesopotamia may represent the famous king Sargon of Akkad (c. 2334 - c.2279 BC).  This bronze head, however (now in the Iraq Museum, Baghdad), because of its brilliant technique and elaborately modelled features, is thought by some authorities to belong to a rather later stage of the Akkadian Period (c. 2334 - c.2154 BC); if so, the head might represent King Naram-Sin (c. 2254 - c. 2218 BC).  The hypothesis for the earlier period seems preferable, for metal work advanced more rapidly in style in Mesopotamia at that period than did stone sculpture and it is known from inscriptions that Sargon’s second son, Manishtusu, had built the temple of E-Mashmash at Nineveh by virtue of being the “son of Sargon” and thus a model of the founder of the dynasty would have been appropriately placed there.

 

Surprisingly, there is no large body of evidence to show that Assyrian monarchs build at all extensively in Nineveh during the 2nd millennium BC.  Later monarchs whose inscriptions have appeared on the Acropolis include Shalmaneser I and Tiglath-pileser I, both of whom were active builders in Ashur; the former had founded Calah (Nimrūd).  Nineveh had to wait for the neo-Assyrians, particularly from the time of Ashurnasirpal II (ruled 883-859 BC) onward, for a considerable architectural expansion.  Thereafter successive monarchs kept in repair and founded new palaces and temples to Sin, Nergal, Nanna, Shamash, Ishtar, and Nabu (Nebo).  Unfortunately, severe depredations have left few remains of these edifices.

 

It was Sennacherib who made Nineveh a truly magnificent city (c. 700 BC).  He laid out fresh streets and squares and built within it the famous “palace without a rival”, the plan of which has been mostly recovered and has overall dimensions of about 600 by 630 feet.  It comprised at least 80 rooms, of which many were lined with sculpture.  A large part of the famous “K” collection of tablets were found there (see below) and some of the principal doorways were flanked by human-headed bulls.  At this time the total area of Nineveh comprised about 1,800 acres (700 hectares), and 15 great gates penetrated its walls.  An elaborate system of 18 canals brought water from the hills to Neneveh, and several sections of a magnificently constructed aqueduct erected by the same monarch were discovered at Jerwan, about 25 miles (40 kilmetres) distant.

 

His successor Esarhaddon built an arsenal in the Nabī Yūnus mound, south of Quyunjik, and either he or his successor set up statues of the pharaoh Taharqa (Tarku) at its entrance as trophies to celebrate the conquest of Egypt.  These were discovered by Fuad Safar and Muhammad ‘Alī Muştafā on behalf of the Iraqi Department of Antiquities in 1954.

 

Later in the 7th century BC, Ashurbanipal constructed a new palace at the northwest end of the Acropolis.  He also founded the great library and ordered his scribes to collect and copy ancient texts throughout the country.  The “K” collection included more than 20,000 tablets or fragments of tablets and incorporated the ancient lore of Mesopotamia.  The subjects are literary, religious, and administrative, and a great many tablets are in the form of letters.  Branches of learning represented include mathematics, botany, chemistry, and lexicology.  The library contains a mass of information about the ancient world and will exercise scholars for generations to come.

 

Fourteen years after the death of Ashurbanipal, however, Nineveh suffered a defeat from which it never recovered.  Extensive traces of ash, representing the sack of the city by Babylonians, Scythians, and Medes in 612 BC, have been found in many parts of the Acropolis.  After 612 BC the city ceased to be important, although there are some Seleucid and Greek remains.  Xenophon in the Anabasis recorded the name of the city as Mespila. 

 

In the 13th century AD the city seems to have enjoyed some prosperity under the atabegs of Mosul.  Subsequently, houses continued to be inhabited at least as late as the 16th century AD.  In these later levels imitations of Chinese wares have been found.

 

Outline of the city   From the ruins it has been established that the perimeter of the great Assyrian city wall was about 7.5 miles (12 km) long and in places up to 148 feet (45 m) wide; there was also a great unfinished outer rampart, protected by a moat, and the Khawşar River flowed through the centre of the city to join the Tigris on the western side of it.

 

The 15 great gates that intersected the Acropolis walls were built partly of mud brick and partly of stone.  The long eastern sector, measuring about 3 miles (5 km) contained six gates; the southern sector, measuring 2,624 feet (800 m), contained only one, the Ashur Gate; the western sector, measuring about 2.5 miles (4 km) had five gates and the northern sector, measuring about 1.2 miles (1.9 km), three gates, Adad, Nergal, and Sin.  Several of these entrances are known to have been faced with stone colossi (lamassu).  In the Nergal Gate two winged stone bulls, attributable to Sennacherib, have been reinstalled and a site museum was  erected adjacent to it by the Iraqi Department of Antiquities.  The Adad Gate contained many inscribed tiles and what may prove to be the Sin Gate contained a corridor that led through an arched doorway into a ramp or stairwell giving access to the battlements.

 

Most impressive was the Shamash Gate, which had been thoroughly excavated by Tariq Madhloum on behalf of the Iraqi Department of Antiquities.  It was found to have been approached across two moats and a watercourse by a series of bridges in which the arches were cut out of the natural conglomerate.  The wall was faced with limestone and surmounted by a crenellated parapet, behind which ran a defence causeway.  The structure was constructed of mud as well as burnt bricks which bore the stamp of Sennacherib.  There was an entrance 14.8 feet (4.5 m) wide in the centre of a long, projecting bastion which was further strengthened by six towers.  Crudely incised stone slabs on the inner side of the gateway depicted the burning of a tower and it is possible that these carvings  represented the fall of Nineveh and are post-Assyrian.  The internal plan of the gate includes six great chambers lined with uncarved orthostats (upright slabs), which were discovered by Layard and Rassam.

 

Archeologists have also been active within the Quyunjik (Acropolis).  Since 1966 restoration has proceeded on the throne room of Sennacherib’s palace and some of the adjoining chambers.  All the entrances to the two main chambers were found to be flanked by winged bull colossi, and a series of orthostats not recorded by any of the 19th century excavators were recovered.  One such slab illustrates a foreign city, heavily defended by towers, surrendering to the Assyrian army.  Adjoining the throne room is a stone-paved bathroom, and the great ante-hall contained no fewer than 40 carved orthostats.  The subjects represented include Sennacherib’s campaigns against mountain-dwelling peoples, besieged cities, and unites of the Assyrian army.

 

 

Mosul Contributions to Art, Science and Industry

 

Art

 

Mosul School of Painting

 

This is a style of miniature painting that developed in northern Iraq in the late 12th to early 13th century under the patronage of the Zangid dynasty (1127-1222).  In technique and style the Mosul school was similar to the painting of the Seljuq Turks, who controlled Iraq at that time, but the Mosul artists had a sharper sense of realism based on the subject matter and degree of detail in the painting rather than on representation in three dimensions, which did not occur.  Most of the Mosul iconography was Seljuq - for example, the use of figures seated cross-legged in a frontal position.  Certain symbolic elements however, such as the crescent and serpents, were derived from the classical Mesopotamian repertory.

 

Most Mosul paintings were illustrations of manuscripts - mainly scientific works, animal books, and lyric poetry.  A frontispiece painting, now held in the Bibliothèque National, Paris, dating from a late 12th century copy of Galen’s medical treatise, the Kitab al-diriyak (“Book of Antidotes”), is a good example of the earlier work of the Mosul school.  It depicts four figures surrounding a central, seated figure who holds a crescent-shaped halo.  The painting is in a variety of solid colours; reds, blues, greens and gold.  The Küfic lettering is blue.  The total effect is best described as majestic.  Another mid-13th century frontispiece held in the Nationalbibliothek, Vienna, to another copy of the same text suggests the quality of later Mosul painting.  There is realism in its depiction of the preparation of a ruler’s meal and of horsemen engaged in various activities, and the painting is as colourful as that of the early Mosul school, yet it is somehow less spirited.  The composition is more elaborate but less successful.  By this time the Baghdad school, which combined the styles of the Syrian and early Mosul schools, had begun to dominate.  With the invasion of the Mongols in the mid-13th century, the Mosul school came to an end, but its achievements were influential in both the Mamlük and the Mongol schools of miniature painting.

 

 

 

Mosul School of Metalwork  

 

This was a group of 13th-century metal craftsmen centred in Mosul who, for centuries to follow, influenced the metalwork of the Islamic world from North Africa to eastern Iran.  Under the active patronage of the Zangid dynasty, the Mosul School developed an extraordinarily refined technique of inlay - particularly in silver - far overshadowing the earlier work of the Sāmānids in Persia and the Būyids in Iraq.

 

Mosul craftsmen used both gold and silver for inlay on bronze and brass.  After delicate engraving had prepared the surface of the piece, strips of gold and silver were worked so carefully that not the slightest irregularity appeared in the whole of the elaborate design.  The technique was carried by Mosul metalworkers to Aleppo, Damascus, Baghdad, Cairo and Persia; a class of similar metalwork from these centres is called Mosul bronzes.

 

Among the most famous surviving Mosul pieces is a brass ewer inlaid with silver from 1232, and now in the British Museum, by the artist Shujā’ ibn Mana.  The ewer features representational as well as abstract design, depicting battle scenes, animals and musicians within medallions.  Mosul metalworkers also created pieces for Eastern Christians.  A candlestick of this variety from 1238 and housed in the Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Paris, attributed to Dà’ūd ibn Salamah of Mosul, is bronze with silver inlay.  It displays the familiar medallions but is also engraved with scenes showing Christ as a child.  Rows of standing figures, probably saints, decorate the base.  The background is decorated with typically Islamic vine scrolls and intricate

arabesques, giving the piece a unique flavour.

 

 

 

 

Mosul in the 20th century

 

 

Image:Tigris river Mosul.jpg

 

Tigris River and bridge in Mosul.

 

 

References:

 

1.                   Mosul. Encyclopaedia Britannica 1974, 8; 335

2.                   http://www.mideasttravelling.net/iraq/mosul/mosul_history.htm

3.                   http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/world/iraq/mosul.htm

4.                   http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mosul

5.                   http://www.arab.net/iraq/iq_mosul.htm

6.                   http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/world/iraq/mosul.htm

7.                   Jalili translation of Olson

8.                   Mosul Before Iraq – Like Bees Making Five-Sided Cells, Sarah D Shields 2000

 

Abbreviation:      CE Current Era

 


More photos from Mosul